Field (Mouse) report: Noo Yawk pix ‘n panz

Ed.: Mouse is a serious wine maven. He reports in from a recent run through Manhattan where he found some great and not so great white wines that in turn prompted several thoughts on white wines in general.
First, let’s just get this out of the way. Burgundy represents the zenith of white wine. Riesling in its various forms may have a few delegates, but they would represent John Edwards in a summer convention. And maybe one renegade Viognier supporter. But the white burgs would win by a voice of affirmation. Deafening. Perhaps later we can go into Cote de Beaune in more detail, but for now, let’s move on to the wines.
[ed. un moment my leetle rodent! Here is an excellent link to the winedoctor where he discusses Burgundy and Chablis!!]. . .Furthermore, I have posted a redundant map of France’s wine regions in case anyone wonders where Burgundy sits.]
2000 Vincent Prunier Premier Cru St Aubin $15: Recently my man Mike at New England Beverage Mart in Orange, CT, alerted me to a $15 St. Aubin, an 2000 premier cru from La Chateniere from Vincent Prunier. Never had the vineyard, never heard of the producer. But for $15? A case later, it remains a deal of deals. All of the burg essentials are there – oatmeal, hazelnut, ripe pear and length, length, length. A close-out, of course, and comparable to ANY $40 bottle one would find. Two Strong Mice.

2001 Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot $30: But…. Last night we popped our one bottle of 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot by Gagnard-Delagrange. OK, I only paid $30, and it’s not a classic vintage, but still, did it have to be so flabby and lifeless by bottle’s end? Because of its pedigree, I’ll dole out a Mouse, but I expected greatness! Jacques is the brother of Jean-Noel Gagnard, and son-in-law of Edmond Delagrange-Bachelet. He’s fairly well known. Burgundy is the West Virginia of winemakers. [ed. Another hard-to-find find, best Internet price $50]

2006 Stadlmann Zierfandler $15: Now to the germanics. First, the $15 liquid glue from an Austrian producer named Stadlmann. Purchased in Manhattan at a lovely little store called Nancy’s Wines on Columbus Ave. They specialize in wines others don’t sell. Four German spatburgunders (pinot noir), for example. They recommended a BYOB Chinese restaurant and a varietal called zierfandler that was news to me. It should have stayed that way. For a Frederick Wildman import, coupled with Nancy’s enthusiasm, I expected more. The food was spicy and we still didn’t finish the bottle. This experience convinced me that Austria’s brilliance rests on its Riesling. You can have the dry pepper Gruner.

2002 Weingut Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Kabinett $8: But, ah, to the fairytale Rheingau to cap off this discussion. An $8 close-out from Weingut Prinz von Hessen: 2002 Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Kabinett. Well, tasted more like an auslese to me. Rich, minerally, sweet candied apples and a lovely viscous streak in the glass. Bottle for bottle, does anyone producer more consistently good wine than the peace loving 21st century Germans? 1.5 mice [ed. This winery is a member of Der Grosse Ring, the long-standing if somewhat mysterious mark of excellence in German wines]