Transformative wines

Gaudi lizard.jpgEverybody knows fine wines are supposed to change over time. The wine’s aging process is, for many oenophiles, an essential component of what constitutes “fine wine”. However, as long as we are getting anthropomorphic about it, how about some zoology; what about a wine that, over time, changes like a chameleon? Schizophrenic does not fit the wine tBoW has known and documented over enough years – reviewed below by Dotor√© – to understand that when Dotor√© says the wine is “strenj” he writes with authority. Keeping with the theme tBoW covers a couple other wines recently tasted that are unusual. We like unusual but we also know a Dr. Evil concoction when we taste one.


2003 Babcock Cargassachi Pinot Noir
$30 (at the 2004 Wine Cask Futures tasting): Opened this wine the other night (still have 1/2 bottle left for tonight and one other in the cooler). Lots of lessons in that bottle. Wine is really idiosyncratic, almost strange. Very big and multi-dimensional. ≈∞berPinot. Candy tones reminiscent of WS, but complex like Rochioli. Alcohol not particularly high, especially for SRH, but, for some reason, I still taste it up front. Truth is, not my favorite and, stylistically, a bit of a disappointment. Of course, Mrs. Dotor√© loved it. I just don’t think it captivates me the way that Burg, or recent Oregonians for that matter, would. To date, my favorite local Pinot (read not Russian River) is made by Paul Lato. Go figure.
scaggsrose08.jpg2008 Scaggs VIneyard Mt Veeder Napa Valley Grenache Ros√© $15 in 500 ml bottle): Pale pale salmon color. The alcohol is prominent even though the wine is chilled as recommended on the label. Gives the wine a smoky but not hot quality. It is somewhat sharp. Upon warming up a bit the wine is much more agreeable. It is not at all sweet. You might call it a “serious” ros√©. I am unable to think of another “serious” ros√©, in fact, I would regard such a contradiction in concept. Dotor√© might tag it “flod”. Yes, this is Boz Scaggs label. He does not pretend to be the winemaker which is admirable. 14.1%
benessere-bg-zin-04.jpg2004 Bennessere Zinfandel $20: Just to show that wines which do not taste as expected are not always “off” here is a zinfandel that tastes like something other than zin. And it is 5 years old. The Bennessere label may not be widely recognized. Perfectly delightful wine. I look at the label expecting to see Sangiovese or Barbera. The winery specializes in Cal-Ital and his is definitely on the Ital side of that equation. These are 82 year old vines from St. Helena. Soft tannins, maturing fruit. No raisins or prunes. Proof that Napa really is a winemaking region with ROOTS. 14.6%
tBoW wishes to share a contemporary note on recent social events from Dotor√©: The loss of a cultural icon is always felt throughout society. When an artist’s work spans generations it is never surprising to observe widespread anguish especially when a lifetime of tragedy and dubious choices is overshadowed by the monumental work of a career. We add our thoughts and prayers to the collective consciousness and bid a heavy-heart adieu to musical pioneer and hitmaker, and LA legend, Sky Saxon.

What happens is you start going through Youtube and before you know it there are two more vids that just gotta get posted.

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