Posts belonging to Category Grenache

We started “tasting wine” in 1978. We frequented a wine shop in West LA up the street from the Wine House which had recently opened. The shop was located in a bungalow that was once somebody’s home on Cotner. It was the outlet store for The Wine Merchant owned by Dennis Overstreet and located in Beverly Hills. His BH store had all the celebrity clients. The outlet spot was for the lumpen proletariat of LA’s budding wine scene. In 1978 the collector’s find was any Napa Cabernet from 1974. The first wave of Napa Cabernet producers was emerging that included Diamond Creek, Caymus and Ridge. Heitz Cellar was an old guard hot ticket along with BV Georges De Latour. The real sharpies were hunting down old vintages of Inglenook. The good thing about the Cotner store was the Saturday tastings which were loosely formed, spontaneous events. Once a sufficient threshold of aspiring snobs was present somebody bought a bottle and opened it right there in the store. The store clerks were not like the info-matics you find today in upscale wine versions of Target like Total Wine or BevMo [ed. he prefers Total Yawn]. The store clerks at the Cotner store were geeks, folks like the ones buying wine except they had to work somewhere and living in LA was still pretty cheap in the late 1970s so a wine shop was good as any other minimum wage shithole. And you could drink interesting wines when the air got thick with opinions and burning curiosity. (more…)

There IS a Macys in the Santa Maria Town Center mall. That’s one less challenge for moving to Orcutt. Santa Maria and Orcutt are the center of Santa Barbara wine country hinterlands. You can think of Orcutt as your last chance to find vinous shelter in rolling hills not completely overrun with vineyards. Forget about Buellton, Los Olivos, Santa Ynez and Solvang which long ago went Hollywood. Lompoc? Beyond the wine ghetto there’s Vandenberg AFB aka the western Cape Canaveral, and the Federal Correctional Institution. Charming. Orcutt and Santa Maria, however, still qualify as bona fide unpolished jewels in the crown of California’s loveliest region – the Central Coast. This IS the wine road less traveled. And David Corey who with Beck Corey is co-founder of CORE Wine Companyis a multi-generational homegrown resident who likes it enough to return from Kansas State and build a life here.

Let’s blow through the background quickly because his current life is almost as interesting [ed. I don't care who you are that's funny]. He studied entymology in college (hard-core – aha! – bioscience) mastering the control of bugs and pests with other bugs and pests, without neglecting the prudent use of chemicals. He returned to the gargantuan farmlands of Santa Maria quickly becoming a guy in demand. Vineyard managers came on board and he ended up consulting to many in the Central Coast’s largest co-op wine production facility. He “discovered” a vineyard at 3200 foot elevation, leased it for the next quarter century, convinced Becky to stop working as head marketer for one of the regions largest wineries and to join him in their new enterprise named CORE. The first release was the 2001 Hard Core blend. David and Becky honeymooned in Southern France where they learned to love the wines blending Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre – which he refers to as GSM. Coincidentally, Mr. and Mrs. tBoW were discovering the Languedoc in 2000 and were also impressed with this poorly regarded region and the improving quality of wines tasted there. We were also impressed as were the Coreys – coincidentally – with the value of these wines.

Flash forward to 2005 when tBoW coordinated a wine dinner at a local golf club. We charged the club members big bucks to taste wines made by and in close proximity with “celebrity” winemakers from the Land of Sideways [ed. Sideways was released in 2004 putting Santa Rita Hills and our heroes on the radar] with the proceeds going to the local Boys & Girls Club. The lineup we pulled together included Kris Curran (Sea Smoke, Curran Wines), Wes Hagan (Clos Pepe), David Corey, and Peter Cargasacchi (Cargasacchi, Point Concepcion) who were widely unknown in 2005 but considerably better known today. Of all those winemakers then under-the-radar, David Corey remains the most under-the-radar winemaker and label today. tBoW did not understand what David was doing then. He was blending all his wines instead of putting out single varietals. He kept the wines in oak for years – not months. And he did not make one single Pinot Noir! His wines were not big and fruit forward like so many from Santa Rita Hills. He was U-N-U-S-U-A-L. Maybe even a zealot.

Having tasted his wines the last weekend in 2011 I can see we were right to include David in that 2005 high-achieving group of future wine stars. He is a zealot and a visionary. He has stuck to his preference for blended Rhone style wines despite relentless pressure to “go big and fruity”. Based on how well his older wines showed he has grown into an outstanding winemaker who is all about terroir and technique in the cellar. Here are the notes. Look for his wines. All prices are online although if buying a mixed case you may be able to get best pricing in the tasting room, as well as otherwise hard-to-find selections.

First we tasted two white wines.

2007 CORE Santa Barbara County White Wine $18: 70% Grenache Blanc, 29% Rousanne, 7% Marsanne. Tannic shows but does not detract from the wine which conjures Graham crackers. We bought some. 14.5%

2007 B CORE: 75% Rousanne, 25% Marsanne. Not yet released because he kept it in oak for 37 months. This wine is tannic and not in balance…yet. We prefer the prior blend. He uses “newer” and older barrels, nothing brand new. This allows him to control the nuance. Why does he use oak when so many biodynamic sustainable green folks are shying away? Oak gives the wine character he says. He fine tunes his wines carefully withholding nutrients and other ingredients. He eschews chlorine at all times and is careful about air-blasting bottles before the corks go in. He despises screw tops and any form of sealing the bottle other than cork. He prefers to use really high-end corks although he limits the expense to his highest-end wines.

On to the reds. CORE has three principle lines based on a combination of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre: (1) CORE GSM which uses fruit from vineyards other than Alta Mesa, (2) Elevation Sensation which is all Alta Mesa fruit, and (3) Hard Core which can include non-GSM varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Given his extended barrel aging program the most recent release for these wines is 2007, 2008 or 2009.

2001 CORE 541 GSM (no longer available unless you find it online): 50% Mourvedre, 40% Grenache, 10% Syrah. Still fresh. Great balance. Delicious. Medium weight, clarity of color and flavors. He wants to avoid a “primary” wine which, in his terms, is a fruit forward style. This is the first wine he made under the CORE label and it is showing very well at 10 years. Would have bought if he had it for sale.

2002 CORE 352 GSM $25: Now you get the number scheme; 30% Mourvedre, 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah. The Grenache and Mourvedre come from the ~18 acre Alta Mesa Vineyard which is planted almost half and half to each varietal. He had a few of these in the tasting room. Consider what he has to say about his blending philosophy. “Blended wines in the New World are generally made from the juice that didn’t make the first cut. I select my best juice to blend in my wines.” This wine has plenty of fruit but is also balanced with tannic acid and influence of the more severe high altitude environment. Like the 2001 this wine is still on the ascent. It may be close to its apex but is still improving. All his wines are above 14% but none were alcoholic.

2005 CORE Alta Mesa Vineyard Santa Barbara County Grenache $28: This wine is ripe and balanced. Mrs. tBoW thinks it would be yummy with duck. Biggest of the wines we tasted. Big alcohol balances with right fruit. He is one of the few guys who seems consistently able to do this in the region. Maybe the state.

2008 CORE Santa Barbara Grenache $20: Sublime. Almost delicate and still muscular. Mature. Color is brick red. Nose is like a flower bed. Has 15% Syrah. David likens it to Spanish style Grenache which is dustier and more refined than French styles. A tBoW favorite. Making us re-think the alcohol issue as a general rule. 14.9%

2002 Elevation Sensation Alta Mesa Vineyard $37: Half and half Mouvedre and Grenache. Very much alive. Yummy. This is classic Old World style. It would be hard to pick it out of an Old World lineup from the Languedoc except that it would probably be the favorite among blind tasters.

2003 Elevation Sensation Alta Mesa Vineyard $34: Blended as above with 2% Syrah. Outstanding. Every wine is tasting great. Rich red color. No we are not spitting. This is a young wine that has further to go than the older CORE GSM wines. He was right about the Alta Mesa vineyard. We are confident each of his vineyard decisions has been on the money. When somebody finds out who lets the world know…what will become of Orcutt?

2007 Elevation Sensation Alta Mesa Vineyard $38: The first wine with a purple robe. Wow. Here is the power. You have to age these wines. A keeper, but they all seem to be.

2007 Hard Core $24: 37% Mourvèdre, 33% Cabernet, 26% Syrah and 4% Grenache. This wine caught the attention of quite a few writers. Everyone I read gave it 90 points and up. David understands the importance of “points” on boosting sales. But we are telling you something different…his wines age very well. Jeb Dunnuck who publishes the Rhone Report and who David respects as a wine critic and writer said about this wine “…a serious wine with deep, rich aromas of black cherry, earth, subtle smoked meats and hints of coffee grinds. The palate is medium bodied with rich, layered fruit, vibrant acidity and a moderately tannic, long finish. I’m a fan, and the wine’s purity and balanced character make it enjoyable to drink, even at this young stage.”

David Corey is making exceptional wines that remain so far under the radar you need sonar to catch the vibe. We have scratched the surface with these comments. He has several other labels his in-laws talked him into that you can find at the website. He plays with Bordeaux blends and other exotic grapes under those labels. He also has a Mister Mourved label and his priciest release the Cuvee Fletcher.

The drive to Orcutt is worth making if you live in SoCal or happen to be touring wine country. You get to spend time with a very thoughtful man who is without pretensions and holds interests outside wine. If you cannot make the drive you might try ordering his wines. Food friendly and perfect for summer steaks Santa Maria style.

ME..I WANT A HULA HOOP! Fortunately, Alvin did not help select the offerings of the day-long tBoW Open House. Dotoré and REL were first to arrive and nearly last to leave eight hours later. tBoW team tasters filled the front lines as veterans retreated for fresh glasses. All indulged enthusiastically on Christmas lasagna and an endless loop of corny cool Christmas music that competed for attention with what turned out to be a very nice wine lineup. The wines were especially intriguing because they included a couple of oldies (mid 90s), a pricey recent vintage white wine, and a slew of U20 bargains in white and red. I’ll tell you what – that was more than a party. It was a dang seminar. After all was poured and quaffed, the wines showed up the Chipmunks pretty well. The lasagna and butter cookies held their own. The next day we skipped the sales and headed for Santa Anita for more excitement!

2009 Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons Premier Cru $50: First wine this day so it had to be good. With palates alive we found the wine to be even lovelier than hoped for. Baking soda nose. Butterscotch already there although muted. Should develop with a few more years. Wish we had a few more bottles of this. Truly lovely Chardonnay from a supposedly underwhelming vintage in Burgundy. Hnnh. Supposedly from 50 y.o. vines. Maybe that’s why it costs 50 bucks. 13%

1995 Elio Altare Barolo $70: Carried por mano from La Morra in 2001 by Dotoré. It was just the two of us when Doc Holliday’s “heir-ator” apparent bespoke “pop that cork.” 1995 was a tough vintage followed by two magnificently seductive ones. This wine was rough-hewn right out of the bottle. The deeply lined face of Tommy Lee Jones comes to mind, along with his intriguing charm. All the tar is there. We knew the bouquet would open with time and hoped it would be the tell-tale Barolo roses. 45 minutes later the fruit is beginning to show along with meaty aromas and flavors. The wine did not completely bloom to Piemonte roses but the informed few like PTT8Y and T3 Tootsie-The-Taster, kept coming back for more until it was all gone. Nice work Dotoré. 13.5%

2007 Scott Paul Le Paulee $30: We have linked the two wines because a naive taster noted “these two wines remind me of each other.” We love an innocently stated astitution.

Barolo and Pinot Noir do share qualities and characteristics if not flavors. Usually takes awhile to get it…but not always. Screw top entry level from notable Carlton vintner Scott Paul Wright. 2007 got some negative early press that we now see was based on a misbegotten love affair with the over-ripe 2006 vintage. This wine is delightful and delicious. “Volnay, simply nice” says Dotoré in a good way. Forthright Pinot nose. No mistaking this grape. Not too ripe for which the 2007 vintage from the Willamette Valley is known and unfairly maligned. Really makes the case for the best domestic Pinot Noir coming out of Oregon’s Willamette Valley 40 minutes southwest of Portland. Nice effort. Could easily go another year if you see it anywhere near $25. But why wait? 13.1%

2010 Domaine St Antonin “Lou Cazalet” Faugéres $15: Garagiste posts another winner! With the 2 Rieslings below this brings the G. record to 4-1-1. Much better. This is the Languedoc blend we know we prefer: Syrah, Grenache, maybe some Mourvedre. Big, rough, middleweight red. “Blowsy” declares the suddenly loquacious Dotoré. This wine held up for 90 minutes before it disappeared. Call me hope-ful but I think the November election will go the same way as this day’s tastes. The voters will go back for what they like and forget about what they don’t like. Uuhhh…the wine. Here is an example of high alcohol level balancing out with enough fruit, weight and general presentation so that the alcohol is integrated. A U20 super value. 15%

2007 Schlöss Lieser Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spatlese $19: Show me the apples! Just fab. I thought we were past the white wines and came the call…Riesling? Where’s the Riesling? This is a G. [ed. G. is Garagiste, soon we will have O.G. for Original Garagiste] winner. Just yummy. Light on its feet as we might expect. Dances across the palate. Amazing that after several hours of reds with the Chablis long gone and a Vinho Verde upside down in the ice bucket (excellent $5 Espiral from Trader Joes) this wine would still be able to call attention to itself. 2012 will be a Riesling year. 8.5%

2007 Reichsrat Von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett $13: Mouthful of tangy zesty lychee fruit. Kris-B thinks the wine is a bit simple. We got a whollop of tangerines on the finish after another 15 minutes in the glass and are happy Kris-B suggested we grab it. It is from the Pfalz which is a region a Mösel snob would eschew but this proves how biasing auto-preference can be. What’s not to like? A G. and a U20 winner. 9%

1994 Ferreira Port $87: We started the day in the mid 90s and finished there. Ask and ye shall receive a bookend finish on Christmas Day. These are good years to be opening the finest vintage since 1977. These wines are just perfect and still on the upward arc. This is ready to be enjoyed right now. Solid fruit with next to zero tannins showing. Up-and-coming team taster X captures the flavors: “chewy dried mango fruit.” Perfectly balanced. Complemented the cakes and cookies like the 4th horse in the 4th race. Another winner down the stretch. 20%

Sorry to blog and bolt but another year is already here and it is going to require our full attention. Happy New Year. We leave you with the last of the Krisses Mösel tour images, the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard.

This is a story about a descent into wine madness albeit mild madness, we think. You be the judge. A conspiracy of circumstance and opportunity when everything just happened to fall into place at the same time. Kris-B introduced tBoW to Garagiste in January 2011. We looked. We read. We dipped. The first order was a 2009 Hautes Cotes de Beaune Debray that was all of $16 and change. We’re suckers for the region, vintage and especially the value price. As Sanni Bananny would put it…this was the gateway buy. (more…)

The Sins of Wine and Truth in Tasting was never more apparent than recently when we pulled the corks on two big tickets and a super cheapie. Fall cellar purging is in full force as Dotoré realizes he is in danger of ending up in Wine Hell for his many sins. Here is the down low. (more…)