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Powered by Movable Type Personal 4.1 and harmonized, regulated, tonified and nourished by Al

August 16, 2008

Take my wine. Please.

The Missus told tBoW she has had it with the pedestrian wines we have been putting in front of her lately. She gets the concept there are decent wines to be had for under $20. She appreciates the thrill of the hunt for these wines, AND ALL THAT. However, after all the tasting fun is completed during hors d'ouvres she wants tBoW to know when the main course arrives she expects a glass of good wine to accompany.

Fortunately, tBoW did not have to bear this assault alone. The perceptive and fearless Dotoré was present to get to the bottom of things. It turns out she has grown increasingly less fond of the choices placed in front of her the past year. The Missus misses a fruit forward, rich California wine, preferably a pinot noir. Dotoré concludes "there is no question these southwestern France wines are an acquired taste and radically different from California products. However, there is also no question if you are looking for value wines today do not waste your time with California".

tBoW says he'll handle the wine, the Missus will get her fruity reds, but we really should let an authority weigh in on domestic differences and mending fences.

Onto the wines with help from friends and other innocent bystanders.

JR Auvige MV06.jpg2006 Mâcon-Villages Vendanges Manuelles Auvige $15: Robert Chadderdon selection. How quickly we forget! Reviewed in Jan 08. Loved it then. Love it now. White Burgundy that is special not only because it meets the U20 criterion but because it is so dang tasty. Lean with some butter, mostly Chardonnay fruit, apple fruit. Meant to be drunk young. Been drinking this most of the summer. May I say it blows away domestic efforts with Chardonnay? Youbetcha. Has not failed yet. 13%

Gauby06.jpg2005 Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires $22: The perfect wine for returning to the world after hanging on for dear life with a dreaded summer cold. Rousillon village wine with just the right spice and cherries to remind me that I had been living on cough syrup the previous 3 nights. We all know how the palate goes on the fritz in the face of running snot and throat-like-rasping-tool...non-stop. OK. Enough whining and back to the wine-ing!! "Although initially the wines were tannic and extracted, Gauby has moved towards a more balanced elegant style in recent years, and the wines are much better for it." Credit the Wine Doctor who is always worth reading. Get the rest of his enlightening Gauby review here. Predominantly Grenache which is a grape I favor especially when made like this. I should have known; another brilliant Peter Weygandt Selection. A very civilized 13% alcohol level (unattainable if you are making wine in SoCal).

k6.jpgL'Oustal Blanc K6 $16: Winemaker Claude Fonquerle from MInervois. 100% 100 year old Carignane vines. In poker that could be the Minervois nut nut. Fruity for French wine however perhaps not so much for an inspired Southwestern France vintner looking for some New World love. Another Peter Weygandt Selection. I am thrilled that I can publish a photo from Minerovis which is an ancient Cathar stronghold where 200 locals were burnt at the stake in the 13th century following a long and religiously righteous siege. Minerve.jpgAnd what goes on with Minervois wines? Let Peter Weygandt's website tell that story. And this wine in particular? Can you say 2/3 in concrete vats. That is why they call it Old World. Cannot argue with the delicious results at phenomenal value. 13.5%

A few brief words about the Cathars. Some refer to the decades-long assault on Southwestern residents of the culturally distinct and independent land known as the Oc as the 4th Crusade; the only crusade fought on European soil. Led northern French nobility, in particular Simon de Montfort, under the auspices of the Papacy soldiers dedicated 120 days (a quatraine) to seeking out and destroying enemies of the Papal state, banished from Rome at that time. Carcassone twilight.jpgThe times roughly coincided with the fatal attack on the Knights Templar and, like in that dark-of-night blitzkrieg, the aim was to grab whatever wealth and title could be had with a ruthless and merciless military maneuver under the blessing of a besieged religious institution (that would be the Catholic Church). [ed. twilight on the plaza in Carcasonne]

The Cathars were doomed precisely because they were a very popular religious sect whose leaders eschewed the fine clothing and crusty rings favored by local Catholic priests. [ed. In today's mondo vino is it unfair to characterize terroir driven winemakers as the Cathars, the all-homogenizing Pope as Michel Rolland, and Parker as swordsman Simon de Montfort?] Cathar priests Beziers cathedral.jpgwore simple unadorned robes and sandals and walked throughout the region preaching simple life, sexual abstinence (I never said they were perfect, although the holiest Cathars were known as Perfects), healthy nutritious diets, and living a life devoted to joining the heavenly Father after death. They also believed the earth was actually hell and the Pope and all his minions were devils.

They were harmless as a military threat however they were the very definition of sedition and it was their intention to undermine the Holy Roman Church. The Church referred to them as Albigensians because the city of Albi was an open - and defiant - Cathar religious center. Of course, one of the most quoted lines was uttered by th Inquisitor Abbott Arnaud when ordering the wholesale slaughter of 20,000 Beziers inhabitants: "kill them all, God will know his own". [ed. Beziers cathedral above]

Here is a video pitch for a book I have not read that covers (romanticizes?) the era. Romanticizing the Cathars is easily done since the events that occurred frequently appear in culture (films, books) without really linking one and all. For example, Dan Brown's books in some if not large part derive directly from Templar and Cathar history and beliefs.

2006lacaudrina.jpg2006 Romano Dogliotti La Caudrina Moscato d'Asti $17: Another super wine to serve first on a summer evening wherever you are. Fizzy, even frothy in the glass. Not too sweet. Good acid, balanced, excellent. At the end of the night looking back we liked it as much as any other wine poured. 5.5%

2007 domderieux.jpg2007 Domaine de Rieux Cotes de Gascogne $10: Vin de Pays from Gascony by P. Grassa. Lovely, steely, green melon flavors. Minerals. Refreshing. Screw top says drink me every day. 10%

97Josef Freidrich.jpg1997 Josef Friedrich Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen Auslese: Cellar purging yields this forgotten item. The ghosts of fruits that once were here, now faded. I did find a 2001 review that raved. oppenheimer vyrd.jpgStill, quality Riesling is present with some petrol, elder flower and linden flavors. If you are curious here is an excellent description of all the terms on the label. Here is a photo of the village where Josef Friedrich calls home. Kinda steep. 9%

2005mercurey.jpg2005 Michel Sarrazin Mercurey: Imported by North Berkeley Wine. Dried out, light tannins, bitter. Not a tasty wine. May be the wine that pushed the Missus over the top. Even Kobe misses pay ups [ed. news to me.]. 13%

terraventoux2003.jpg2003 Terres de Truffes Cave TerraVentoux $12: The Cotes du Ventoux is a Rhone appellation known for black truffles. This wine is made by Bruno Clement who is a leading harvester in the region and owns the most prominent regional restaurant for cooking with truffles. Sounds good to tBoW! 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah can be a heavenly blend. This is a very nice wine with some stuffing and plenty of forward fruit. Grenache blended with Syrah can show a creamy texture and flavors in the right hands. The Missus was able to enjoy it once she evacuated her festering opinions. Thanks to Vin de Pays Wines in Long Beach CA for posting the excellent write-up on Bruno Clement. 13.5%

Postscript to the lovely Missus...the 2003 TerraVentoux is why we hunt. Wonderful wine, made locally in the cooperative winery, tasting like something the vintner imagined. And $12. Can't beat that with a hockey stick.

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August 9, 2008

Wines for a "Dog Day Afternoon"

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Can the summer go on too long? Izit possible? maybe....yes.....NO!!

I love to watch the weather guys and ladies put the week's forecast up and all I see is 92, 94, 95, 93, 91. And you know what to you have to do. Enjoy it. Like the SRH gangsters above. That is Wes and Uma Hagen and David Corey on the right. David is a ton of fun (so is Wes). Like a mischievous puppy. He was dry-humping like crazy on this summer evening in 2005 only it wasn't the pillow. It was another well known SRH winemaker and she took at least 15 minutes to tell him to cut that out.

core rose 07.jpg2007 Core California Rosé $12: So there I am buying a case at K&L of Moscato d'Asti for the Missus' staff party...and as I am checking out I check out the Rose display. I spot the Core red version and since I have great photos of David Corey I think I should get a bottle. Actually, I remember David Corey's wines are always challenging and usually rewarding. The closer on the sale is the teaser card that says he uses 10 different varietals or ten different sources for this wine. Maybe ten sources because I am fairly certain the blend consists of Dave's favorite grapes - Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Tempranillo. This wine is firm, muscular, sinewy, like a marathon runner or a distance cycler. A lot like Dave. As would be expected not your garden variety delicate pink summer wine. Love it. 14.3%

tintero2 moscato 07.jpg2007 Tintero Sori' Gramella Moscato d'Asti $10: The K&L purchased Moscati. The idea was to serve this at the MIssus' staff party. At 5% everyone stays in the safety zone and still gets to chill a little. More spine than the Bartenura and almost up to La Morandina (the summer Moscati standard). Excellent wine. Mixed it with some Lodi Vermentino and that was also pretty tasty. 5%
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2006 Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel Rosé
$12: Costco purchase. "Tavel is acknowledged to be the world's most complex and flavorful rosé wine" says the back label. "Tell it to Bandol" sez tBoWl!! Dry, dried cranberry fruit, very nice...like a Bandol. Dry, even woody. What was it Dotoré said about Bandol? Highest expectations with decent delivery. Think the original iPhone release.

IGTY [ed. I Gotta Tell Ya...bring it on!!!] I think I prefer the fruitier offerings from...California's Central Coast!! Yes, I am talking about Point Concepcion, Anglim and the Languedoc. Given that the new Costco wine buyer has been on such a hot streak this summer I have to say she fouled one off here. 13.5%

[ed. tBoW continues to overheat like Pacino in his seminal film...below]

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2003 Clautiere Cabernet Sauvignon
$22 wine club: Speaking of the Central Coast, i.e., Paso Robles, this is a pretty decent effort from the uber-fashionable vineyard on the unfashionable East Side. If you like Cabernet Sauvignon unblended. Pencil lead nose yields to a mineral flavor with high tone fruit, smoooooth and plummy. Is it Pauillac? St Estephe? In the Parker/Rolland era? How many folks would be fooled. Can we please stop growing Cabernet Sauvignon in Paso and focus on Rhone blends? Leave the vcabs to Napa. Pinots in Sonoma and points north...far as Oregon. Rhone styles in hot regions like...Paso!! This is a good time to try. 14.5%

And Dog Day Afternoon? His best work, overacting and all. [ed. until Scarface of course] You see the trailer you've seen the movie. Such a New Yawkuh. Pleece. Un-joy.

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August 2, 2008

Strike the Rosé Posé !!!

stealth-bomber-18.jpgSummer is the season for stealth wines like Rosé and Moscato d'Asti. And if you really need something more substantial there are the very stealth Gamay wines from Beaujolais. Which makes summer the most bombastically wonderful season of the year. Put away the pretensions with the ratings gurus and get ready to just sit back and enjoy. Here is a group of summer wines recently tasted.

provence-deffends-rose-06.jpg2007 Rosé du Nuit Domaine du Deffends: Robert Chadderton is the B-2 Stealth Bomber of wine importers. Silently dropping vinous mayhem on our palates. For tBoW it is a tossup between Charles Neal, Chadderton and Peter Weygandt for most captivating importer. In case Chadderton is an anti-war guy I apologize in advance for associating him to my fascination with military porn. rose lady.jpgThis is the stealth wine. [ed. God I hope "W" isn't "protecting freedom" in Iran by the time we publish.] Plenty of acid but still balanced. Undertones of PINK grapefruit. Pale salmon in color. Almost sophisticated but who cares? Not sure what the vogueing lady has to do with the wine except I am sure she has something to do with it. That or she just TRIPS on Madonna. Please check her out and let me know. Fenks. 12.6%.

MM Clan rose 05.jpg2005 McKenzie-Mueller Clan Rosé Napa Valley $19: Screw top cap lets us know Bob Mueller means we should drink this up. Knowing Bob makes serious wine even when he is not being terribly serious we had it with lamb chops off the grill. Perfect. 63% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. That's right - it is a Bordeaux blend Rosé!!! BRAVO!! Who else would try this? Unfiltered to make sure we get all the blend has to offer. I did not like particularly this when he poured it at the winery. Now I am blown away. Beefy Rosé with a light bright red color. A Rosé meant for grilled meats. Who knew? Here is what Bob has to say about this wine. There is only one Napa mail list to be on. 14.7%
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2007 Txakoli Gurrutaga Rosado
: The pink version of the Basque white wine we drank at the Playboy Jazz Festival. That was super acidic. This is just bright and acidic. I like it just fine. Not your grand-papa's pinkie. txakoli back.JPGOr maybe it is if he is a Viking. A Kirk Douglas Rosé. I am going to go out on a limb and say you need to try this wine just to prove you are not a WINE WIMP. I like it. I'm a real tough palate when it is 80 degrees at 8:00 in the evening. 10.5%

chermette.jpg2007 Vissoux Pierre-Marie Chermette Les Griottes Beaujolais Rose $15: [ed. I could not find the label so here is the MAN with his vines]. Pale pink salmon color. Creamy, sour cherries, good acid balancing the fruit like a seal tossing a ball. This has to be Grenache but no...it is Gamay. Unfiltered. So what! It is just perfect in early sumer when the SoCal air is still kinda cool. Peter Weygandt (tBoW Best of Wine Importers) does it again. Kick my booty in a frosty glass bottle no less. Great touch. 12%

thulon beauj 2005.jpg2005 Chateau de Thulon Beaujolais Villages $15: Winemaker is Jean-Marc Gurgaud. The vintage continues to show very well, as expected. Solid cassis flavors usually reserved for Cabernet Sauvigonon. With light shining through. A translucent wine. Outstanding. Rich and hedonistic flavors like a liquer. How do they do it and keep it so lightweight? This is simply excellent wine. 12.5%

2005 rousset croze.jpg2005 Rousset Crozes-Hermitage $20: Kermit Lynch selection purchased at Wine Country in LA's South Bay where the buyer does a wonderful job. Dry, sour-like, balanced, stoniness. I like it; Missus does not. You have to develop a taste I suppose. She much prefers the next wine down.

la morandina.jpg2007 La Morandiña Moscato d'Asti $18: This is the perfect summer wine, or it is the wine of the summer according to the Missus. Like key lime pie in a glass. Has the bitter bright lime topping a core of ripe summer fruit; peaches, oranges, honey with a slight fizz and just enough acid. More sophisticated than other efforts (which we also love). 5%.

sorire.jpg2007 Sori del Re Moscato d'Asti Degiorgis $18: WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER. Some like it better than the Morandini. Peaches and zing and slight spritz. Wunnaful wunnaful. 5.5%

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